Enforcing of Statutes of Apparel

en · official · sha256:6405879252bd5df16f7dc27956d92db3feb8046586a24a86bd8739a8e4b1d43c

Any silk of the color of purple, cloth of gold tissued, nor fur of sables, but only the King, Queen, King's mother, children, brethren, and sisters, uncles and aunts; and except dukes, marquises, and earls, who may wear the same in doublets, jerkins, linings of cloaks, gowns, and hose; and those of the Garter, purple in mantles only.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromGoldTissueOrSableByRank, ExemptFromPurpleSilkByGarter, ExemptFromPurpleSilkByRank, GoldTissueOrSableBreachFound, PurpleSilkBreachFound, WearingGoldTissueOrSable, WearingGoldTissueOrSableForbidden, WearingPurpleSilk, WearingPurpleSilkForbidden, assert-h16fa285e9ef1e5f8551cdba0a105e3b4466a94e30da1f9ede08a503f3ce0f18a, assert-h77224b77e06e63705553b26a4a392bcc31912293a182f69b8089a6d56b326919

en · official · sha256:bcc7a8a8ed1c167132e986c324b48e262b9923d33e9e3698999f997b3aee6c33

None shall wear in their trappings or harness of their horse any studs, buckles, or other garniture gilt, silvered, or damasked; nor stirrups gilt, silvered, or damasked; nor any velvet in saddles or horse trappers: except the persons next before mentioned and others of higher degree, and gentlemen in ordinary, ut supra.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromM10TierByBaronsSon, ExemptFromM10TierByHouseholdAttendance, ExemptFromM10TierByRank, M10TierBreachFound, assert-hc8b87e9ebeccdef394035f72b2f444b4f30fe56f97550912c8c267d4dd8508ca

en · official · sha256:5d914927efbf0ccc273b5538ace69fae31bee05e168b0a44a9c00bf4188b306c

Note that the Lord Chancellor, Treasurer, President of the council, Privy Seal, may wear any velvet, satin, or other silks except purple, and furs black except black genets.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromGoldSilverTierByOffice, assert-h274ac387d98d3de54b3e157df3bc375737461059ddb875fe0a87993e12acc2c4, assert-h314bf9bf418ad86d520d500d053c5e42fa7c3174bb8f1a0b55312990e344ec89, assert-h91f686d40abe3cab255bc7d21ea3420bf59957ee4c8c0d70b63e5381c6691b4a, assert-hd5df0117901500c4c8e1dc58c8c21340445d82efd3d8f44595575d1b843a6f75

en · official · sha256:ebe5dffb98c81758a0f8dd25adaa876cba72b81c7898cc4cfde858cab818110a

These may wear as they have heretofore used, viz. any of the King's council, justices of either bench, Barons of the Exchequer, Master of the Rolls, sergeants at law, Masters of the Chancery, of the Queen's council, apprentices of law, physicians of the King, queen, and Prince, mayors and other head officers of any towns corporate, Barons of the Five Ports, except velvet, damask, [or] satin of the color crimson, violet, purple, blue.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromGoldSilverTierByProfessionalOffice, ExemptFromHundredPoundTierByProfessionalOffice

en · official · sha256:c3734e18c4fe7879c83a845f270efae8603dd6ed645dadfe80d1f18c2ccf61b5

Note that her majesty's meaning is not, by this order, to forbid in any person the wearing of silk buttons, the facing of coats, cloaks, hats and caps, for comeliness only, with taffeta, velvet, or other silk, as is commonly used.

en · official · sha256:36e04e2e1ecc948f26ac6f55ef07d37818be40437c4124bb286a73bd98e1bdc4

Note also that the meaning of this order is not to prohibit a servant from wearing any cognizance of his master, or henchmen, heralds, pursuivants at arms; runners at jousts, tourneys, or such martial feats, and such as wear apparel given them by the Queen, and such as shall have license from the Queen for the same.

en · official · sha256:3ba2b63f482d18f7416b3b6da5344b71dcdea2f8d6b3c6354419b94d3887b5f3

Cloth of gold, silver, tinseled satin, silk, or cloth mixed or embroidered with any gold or silver: except all degrees above viscounts, and viscounts, barons, and other persons of like degree, in doublets, jerkins, linings of cloaks, gowns, and hose.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromGoldSilverTierByRank, GoldSilverTierBreachFound, WearingGoldSilverTierForbidden, WearingGoldSilverTierItem, assert-h3a468155319c2175b4628589869735b6d800fcf563395a0ee27315191313bfef, assert-ha4a4e84bc36be3a368a2a05dcbabb220cbefb5d3db2cd5100ea9718a5bf49a0d, assert-heecb74a95ae7452f97abcff798949189982f4a28db643bf37b22908f172d5f58

en · official · sha256:72daea1900a0938771c72b0e66530d18c5fbffba3823c60522903e970848d761

Woolen cloth made out of the realm, but in caps only; velvet, crimson, or scarlet; furs, black genets, lucernes; embroidery or tailor's work having gold or silver or pearl therein: except dukes, marquises, earls, and their children, viscounts, barons, and knights being companions of the Garter, or any person being of the Privy Council.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromM3TierByGarter, ExemptFromM3TierByParentage, ExemptFromM3TierByPrivyCouncil, ExemptFromM3TierByRank, M3TierBreachFound, assert-h470db1288db7fb97882314cad7b2fd145f75082db587d178ebda8da93bb530fb, assert-h67a5d77f8b037866879da41678b4506dbaeed3a6385f57416d34c10bf50e115e, assert-h93a6fb0853fb8626834a0db3034d664afd409ad525aac3b4db8a3246e5b3b455, assert-hbb83568075d31e3c32b5d32514ecd8d55232a5552a9a88eece85d42b35ae17eb

en · official · sha256:0d9bf6f59a26fec45e28df4d0c53b500e951735b1d4c32f548aae10ccd63ecd3

Velvet in gowns, coats, or other uttermost garments; fur of leopards; embroidery with any silk: except men of the degrees above mentioned, barons' sons, knights and gentlemen in ordinary office attendant upon her majesty's person, and such as have been employed in embassages to foreign princes.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromM4TierByBaronsSon, ExemptFromM4TierByEmbassy, ExemptFromM4TierByHouseholdAttendance, ExemptFromM4TierByRank, M4TierBreachFound, assert-h9f7180d5db6f30911d138ff842d689716d0ad614c467700fcd8272fa70c62742, assert-heb9923bf4e319b8db279ad2119ece56fac747bb0b7dcf6304978278388a9052c, assert-hf0467acc1f329384bff1a41f48315e1386b4be497c6ec6ea0f7cfddd12a6cf37

en · official · sha256:d834d919d364ed6813a210b1cd653d7f543e9854fa4912611ff79c63a1328aed

Caps, hats, hatbands, capbands, garters, or boothose trimmed with gold or silver or pearl; silk netherstocks; enameled chains, buttons, aglets: except men of the degrees above mentioned, the gentlemen attending upon the Queen's person in her highness's Privy chamber or in the office of cupbearer, carver, sewer [server], esquire for the body, gentlemen ushers, or esquires of the stable.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromM5TierByHouseholdAttendance, ExemptFromM5TierByRank, M5TierBreachFound, assert-h22d62c0acc99851bba2026ae3759f1538634b5550ff1ac4f66d8184aca62c6aa, assert-ha145e11e8430b5b8b01992fea88764d1a847112227b54fa074f9b78041732e5b, assert-hea2c30a123faebe813eefc27a34772f5ab3280d9a79ee5d042e816d176eee134

en · official · sha256:b0ed4c9c1542a9891a875110803b94ef5141d43976ca1e91ebcb8de5567ce92d

Satin, damask, silk, camlet, or taffeta in gown, coat, hose, or uppermost garments; fur whereof the kind groweth not in the Queen's dominions, except foins, grey genets, and budge: except the degrees and persons above mentioned, and men that may dispend £100 by the year, and so valued in the subsidy book.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromHundredPoundTierByIncome, ExemptFromHundredPoundTierByRank, HundredPoundTierBreachFound, WearingHundredPoundTierForbidden, WearingHundredPoundTierItem, assert-ha90fd3cbe76d94593a7ddc519d9721de20510bf3fb4a61fcf415b2b705b3a902

en · official · sha256:87814c25d3b902fd58b814f0dd49a4f38d117de4e81b028fddedd65ac0520314

Hat, bonnet, girdle, scabbards of swords, daggers, etc.; shoes and pantofles of velvet: except the degrees and persons above names and the son and heir apparent of a knight.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromM7TierByKnightsHeir, ExemptFromM7TierByRank, M7TierBreachFound, assert-h6ef04a0048008286a44208d05e0a762b8aa14595aed195efaa756eb2cda9aee7, assert-he143c6cb2f701a5b0eca32e4996fd700bf4db2af5c9f87acdb3a6c86de101f8e

en · official · sha256:c8ac0f8537caee62ebcae4ae9edf2e518d6b35f3ea2f11b3f0842958558a6dc1

Silk other than satin, damask, taffeta, camlet, in doublets; and sarcanet, camlet, or taffeta in facing of gowns and cloaks, and in coats, jackets, jerkins, coifs, purses being not of the color scarlet, crimson, or blue; fur of foins, grey genets, or other as the like groweth not in the Queen's dominions: except men of the degrees and persons above mentioned, son of a knight, or son and heir apparent of a man of 300 marks land by the year, so valued in the subsidy books, and men that may dispend £40 by the year, so valued ut supra.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromM8TierByIncome, ExemptFromM8TierByKnightsSon, ExemptFromM8TierByLandedHeir, ExemptFromM8TierByRank, M8TierBreachFound, assert-h4e634f373c2d81c924c4bfe9ff03adadd123e3411320539fab58d44d7a6777f9, assert-he9ff072de219093f0b8d4f142859e16943c13771b5a1c80c15c58b0d0e698c0e

en · official · sha256:21eaaddad389ac704a500d0f2d6fe0797c960f3f71465103ddaffc2af9453e50

None shall wear spurs, swords, rapiers, daggers, skeans, woodknives, or hangers, buckles or girdles, gilt, silvered or damasked: except knights and barons' sons, and others of higher degree or place, and gentlemen in ordinary office attendant upon the Queen's majesty's person; which gentlemen so attendant may wear all the premises saving gilt, silvered, or damasked spurs.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromGiltSpursByBaronsSon, ExemptFromGiltSpursByRank, ExemptFromM9TierByBaronsSon, ExemptFromM9TierByHouseholdAttendance, ExemptFromM9TierByRank, GiltSpursBreachFound, M9TierBreachFound, assert-h4b95abf49025a95363c5e89fd36cdcde8cfc65c3f501d7d58f6acc42c9723308

en · official · sha256:397a09b8e509018c75e290add22985cd3248c537a7f29e87c69bd3a0cc5bf090

Any cloth of gold, tissue, nor fur of sables: except duchesses, marquises, and countesses in their gowns, kirtles, partlets, and sleeves; cloth of gold, silver, tinseled satin, silk, or cloth mixed or embroidered with gold or silver or pearl, saving silk mixed with gold or silver in linings of cowls, partlets, and sleeves: except all degrees above viscountesses, and viscountesses, baronesses, and other personages of like degrees in their kirtles and sleeves.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromGoldSilverTierByFemaleRank, ExemptFromGoldTissueOrSableByFemaleRank

en · official · sha256:ae2c39ba6bfcc4cbcadfcd1d3efb599e96ddd26a19f5c3703a320965faaed905

Damask, taffeta, or other silk in their petticoats: except knights' daughters and such as be matched with them in the former article, who shall not wear a guard of any silk upon their petticoats.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW10TierByKnightsDaughter, ExemptFromW10TierByW9Cascade, W10TierBreachFound, assert-h1258de568709e15bdb4e61249a1e6954797a3b86ad614992c807df58406cbf9b

en · official · sha256:694a672f68db1cd30cbb2aee83f37a1a92e18c1c25f81a1391bd762558584b60

Velvet, tufted taffeta, satin, nor any gold or silver in any cloak or safeguard: except the wives of barons, knights of the order, or councilor's ladies and gentlewomen of the privy chamber and bedchamber, and maids of honor, and the degrees above them.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW11TierByBaronsWife, ExemptFromW11TierByChamberLady, ExemptFromW11TierByCouncillorsLady, ExemptFromW11TierByGarterWife, ExemptFromW11TierByMaidOfHonor, ExemptFromW11TierByRank, W11TierBreachFound, assert-hb0faa0a3ff2fca26e4174cbfaa5f6fb420fbf83243fdb5bd6041c99045616f70

en · official · sha256:a7cebbee109cbc4bec8fdbb26ea80993e42e77ed6c8ca155f9e139dcc20d4290

Damask, taffeta, or other silk in any cloak or safeguard: except knights' wives, and the degrees and persons above mentioned.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW12TierByKnightsWife, ExemptFromW12TierByW11Cascade, W12TierBreachFound, assert-h93bd51402da30a5987b28bfb71c372d7fbf5ae322bec775849bc2301ed6e65f9

en · official · sha256:65800628ce68fa79fcfa2ec5c29ec1ef74c005103188ce83846bf5ea0083b431

No persons under the degrees above specified shall wear any guard or welt of silk upon any petticoat, cloak, or safeguard.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW13TierByW12Cascade, W13TierBreachFound, assert-h99f1e80c85cf1a54ad6e67ebbc10d12dbd2748b31d5ee6bfe78093afdfa993b5

en · official · sha256:a06ea922440293e6a0cc3c6b22510de28a293ac832e7a5a438cbd3dc72505ddc

Velvet (crimson, carnation); furs (black genets, lucerns); embroidery or passment lace of gold or silver: except all degrees above mentioned, the wives of knights of the Garter and of the Privy Council, the ladies and gentlewomen of the privy chamber and bedchamber, and maids of honor.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW2TierByChamberLady, ExemptFromW2TierByGarterWife, ExemptFromW2TierByMaidOfHonor, ExemptFromW2TierByPrivyCouncilWife, ExemptFromW2TierByRank, W2TierBreachFound, assert-h5f275c7541b0bb8017a0060e5b8cd6f565969e073fd3e693c7d2165b1b0e1b1c, assert-h9b05f7db5229ed4e5e71a353f1d90ae23e82cf0862d51b823cc1f475568077ef, assert-hda36b2135194c2684a2cf65a8daf4f9b74a40f1c010ea7979ff74023346b1bf4

en · official · sha256:f7ee93b3dbd8b10ad052e4daa9abe09897641074c383b1bd078715a411231008

None shall wear any velvet in gowns, furs of leopards, embroidery of silk: except the degrees and persons above mentioned, the wives of barons' sons, or of knights.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW3TierByBaronsSonWife, ExemptFromW3TierByKnightsWife, ExemptFromW3TierByRank, W3TierBreachFound

en · official · sha256:9359b0a3b5d3397635481cd6a4bfeececfdce7cb11b0a58b4582e7321a961e1b

Cowls, sleeves, partlets, and linings, trimmed with spangles or pearls of gold, silver, or pearl; cowls of gold or silver, or of silk mixed with gold or silver: except the degrees and persons above mentioned; and trimmed with pearl, none under the degree of baroness or like degrees.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW4TierByBaronsSonWife, ExemptFromW4TierByChamberLady, ExemptFromW4TierByCouncillorsLady, ExemptFromW4TierByGarterWife, ExemptFromW4TierByKnightsWife, ExemptFromW4TierByMaidOfHonor, ExemptFromW4TierByRank, PearlTrimmedHeadwearBreachFound, W4TierBreachFound, assert-h3a0c934cd015fb79f4eaea1c1dc566e4e370fa46db40f6d9d1738c35b419504c

en · official · sha256:32e244dbaad608e759ad7390dd88087f2fe5a3bd57bf7b80038a521662bc7948

Enameled chains, buttons, aglets, and borders: except the degrees before mentioned.

en · official · sha256:96e5d16c2be8c6dfa5e0e3c3b93d96c812fffa6de252cfdf05eea9635e27681f

Satin, damask, or tufted taffeta in gowns, kirtles, or velvet in kirtles; fur whereof the kind groweth not within the Queen's dominions, except foins, grey genets, bodge, and wolf: except the degrees and persons above mentioned, or the wives of those that may dispend £100 by the year and so valued in the subsidy book.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW6TierByHundredPoundWife, ExemptFromW6TierByRank, W6TierBreachFound, assert-h4811b34e617fd6e10e37cf1cd729f29eb19db118f208eaa6c3fe029315e20bbd

en · official · sha256:bf5a1683d571762c25bb03f72d53bfbda0d362dbe92392c011a2fd656ccb6ab1

Gowns of silk grosgrain, doubled sarcenet, camlet, or taffeta, or kirtles of satin or damask: except the degrees and persons above mentioned, and the wives of the sons and heirs of knights, and the daughters of knights, and of such as may dispend 300 marks by the year so valued ut supra, and the wives of those that may dispend £40 by the year.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW7TierByFortyPoundWife, ExemptFromW7TierByKnightsDaughter, ExemptFromW7TierByKnightsHeirWife, ExemptFromW7TierByLandedWife, ExemptFromW7TierByRank, W7TierBreachFound, assert-h1f3e62314f920198851aca8fe0c74557ef32099541a70072cdd79ff484bcc401

en · official · sha256:14ae5a8e9162d6eecbdbf3faa8edd22a34d2f8ff57536cce38bcab9517b4fb63

Gentlewomen attendant upon duchesses, marquises, countesses may wear, in their liveries given them by their mistresses, as the wives of those that may dispend £100 by the year and are so valued ut supra.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW6TierByLiveriedGentlewoman

en · official · sha256:75451666287b3575289ff46a5b83ee568f0a6ce0fe72e13c45d377e342a35e55

None shall wear any velvet, tufted taffeta, satin, or any gold or silver in their petticoats: except wives of barons, knights of the order, or councilors' ladies, and gentlewomen of the privy chamber and bed chamber, and the maids of honor.

Referencing norms: ExemptFromW9TierByBaronsWife, ExemptFromW9TierByChamberLady, ExemptFromW9TierByCouncillorsLady, ExemptFromW9TierByGarterWife, ExemptFromW9TierByMaidOfHonor, W9TierBreachFound, assert-hdddbba2eada608efad9876a56b9e339dcfc5e791c98578bd70347839739b86e5

en · official · sha256:625b33093f47a3b5431f2d9462ebcd96e28f0d25d1dc48804ba7fc8f717bdd86

The excess of apparel and the superfluity of unnecessary foreign wares thereto belonging now of late years is grown by sufferance to such an extremity that the manifest decay of the whole realm generally is like to follow (by bringing into the realm such superfluities of silks, cloths of gold, silver, and other most vain devices of so great cost for the quantity thereof as of necessity the moneys and treasure of the realm is and must be yearly conveyed out of the same to answer the said excess) but also particularly the wasting and undoing of a great number of young gentlemen, otherwise serviceable, and others seeking by show of apparel to be esteemed as gentlemen, who, allured by the vain show of those things, do not only consume themselves, their goods, and lands which their parents left unto them, but also run into such debts and shifts as they cannot live out of danger of laws without attempting unlawful acts, whereby they are not any ways serviceable to their country as otherwise they might be.

en · official · sha256:24218e8a0416173b6f8e57ee4ace1d745c999558bc08eac1e23dba7ef3a8e563

Which great abuses, tending both to so manifest a decay of the wealth of the realm and to the ruin of a multitude of serviceable young men and gentlemen and of many good families, the Queen's majesty hath of her own princely wisdom so considered as she hath of late with great charged to her council commanded the same to be presently and speedily remedied both in her own court and in all other places of her realm, according to the sundry good laws heretofore provided.

en · official · sha256:c61f240afb66bd9f339182a56d51fa75392f66a81f2f783d4a99f3bdd07fe1e2

For reformation whereof, although her highness might take great advantage and profit by execution of the said laws and statutes, yet of her princely clemency her majesty is content at this time to give warning to her loving subjects to reform themselves, and not to extend forthwith the rigor of her laws for the offences heretofore past, so as they shall now reform themselves according to such orders as at this present, jointly with this proclamation, are set forth, whereby the statute of the 24th year of her majesty's most noble father King Henry VIII and the statute made in the second year of her late dear sister Queen Mary are in some part moderated according to this time.

en · official · sha256:b858c51795363f675c638ed6c06c56347cfa73a436b9a7e869dff79bad58ffd5

Wherefore her majesty willeth and straightly commandeth all manner of persons in all places within 12 days after the publication of this present proclamation to reform their apparel according to the tenor of certain articles and clauses taken out of the said statutes and with some moderations annexed to this proclamation, upon pain of her highness's indignation, and punishment for their contempts, and such other pains as in the said several statutes be expressed.

en · official · sha256:5462442fee0d43ea04fb18f4ef0e4d7aef63c4064c808eca5090b9b66a0dd060

For the execution of which orders her majesty first giveth special charge to all such as do bear office within her most honorable house to look unto it, each person in his degree and office, that the said articles and orders be duly observed, and the contrary reformed in her majesty's court by all them who are under their office, thereby to give example to the rest of the realm; and further generally to all noblemen, of what estate or degree soever they be, and all and every person of her privy council, to all archbishops and bishops, and to the rest of the clergy according to their degrees, that they do see the same speedily and duly executed in their private households and families; and to all mayors and other head officers of cities, towns, and corporations, to the chancellors of the universities, to governors of colleges, to the ancients and benchers in every the Inns of Court and Chancery, and generally to all that hath any superiority or government over and upon any multitude, and each man in his own household for their children and servants, that they likewise do cause the said orders to be kept by all lawful means that they can.

Referencing norms: EnforceApparelOrderWithinHousehold, HouseholdOfficerMustEnforce

en · official · sha256:5bfe874baf6f6718b80aeccd554b441bcbce75787d900c800dbbee25e5dee06c

And to the intent the same might be better kept generally throughout all the realm, her majesty giveth also special charge to all justices of the peace to inquire of the defaults and breaking of those orders in their quarter sessions, and to see them redressed in all open assemblies by all wise, godly, and lawful means; and also to all Justices of Assizes in their circuits to cause inquiry and due presentment to be made at their next assizes how these orders be kept; and so orderly, twice a year at every assize after each other circuits done, to certify in writing to her highness's Privy Council under their hands, with as convenient speed as they may, what hath been found and done as well by the justices of the peace in their quarter sessions, of whom they shall take their certificate for each quarter session, as also at the assizes, for the observing of the said orders and reformation of the abuses.

Referencing norms: AssizeInquireAndCertify, JPInquireAndRedress, JPMustInquireAndRedress, JusticeOfAssizeMustInquireAndCertify